Farm Updates & Announcements

Here you will find farm news and updates, comments about when I add or subtract goats, or just whatever is going on.

11/11/17 – Brought 2 does up to MI from NC, Minnie and Vinnie. Vinnie is here for her first freshening and will then be made available for sale. Minnie is here to be my dedicated milk goat, she is half LaMancha half Nigerian.

11/4/17 – I took 2 does and 2 bucks to NC.  🙂

10/29/17 – Moved the bucks out of the main barn and into their own pasture and house today. An 8×10 shed and about half an acre or so for grazing, situated behind the main barn.

10/26/17 – Batch of CAE and Johne’s testing done today at the Michigan farm. Archer: 4.6 years old, tested for both. Onaway: 1.8 years old, tested for both, and Toga: 1.6 years old, tested for only CAE. Darjeeling: 1.5 years old, tested for CAE only, Sobrina: 1.8 years old tested for both, and Pickpocket: 1.7 years old, tested for both. And Whitey (Onaway) is obese. LOL  Also got the back-up opinion from my doctor that my 2:1 Calcium to Phosphorus ratio in my feed is too sketchy (it’s a range) not to add ammonium chloride to the feed, which I have been doing, and will just keep on doing.

10/11/17 – Adding ammonium chloride to your buck’s/wether’s feed:

For me, it is cheaper to top dress ammonium chloride onto regular feed for the bucks than to buy buck feed with it already added. I’m giving a rounded 1/2 teaspoon per 1 lb of feed – I came up with this from Colorado State U publication stating 2.27 grams of ammonium chloride per 1 pound of feed. (4 grams is 1 teaspoon). Purdue calls for 40 lbs of AC for 1 ton of feed.

EDITED to add: I received an email from Susan Schoenian from University of Maryland Extension. She says:

“The first fact sheet gives recommendations for 0.5 to 1.5% of diet. The second publication suggests 2% of diet (typo 20% should be 2%).

Not sure why the Purdue publication recommends a higher percentage. Nothing I can find supports this recommendation.

The lowest effective rate is usually best. 0.5%. 1% should be okay for less than 3 month feeding period.

I assume whole diet is 2:1 Ca:P or higher? I’d feed hay along with grain. Many things can contribute to incidence of urinary calculi.”

10/5/17 – For spring kids I’ve bred Zanzabeez EO Toga Party to SGM The Queen’s Bloomers, Five-Points P Pickpocket, and DesertNanny P Sobrina Bella.

10/5/17  –  Linear Scale for Stature – Nigerian Dwarf goats.
Inches       Linear Score
17″                5
18″                10
19″                15
20″               20
21″                25
22″               30
23″               35
24″               40
25″               45

10/5/17 – I saw someone advertising on facebook they were looking for free goats and would give them a good home. Ha! Wonder if they have a clue that goats are more difficult to keep healthy than other types of livestock. Here is a list of some supplies I keep on hand to keep my vet costs down:

Nutrition – Excellent quality hay, never tell a hay seller it’s for goats, look for horse hay. Loose goat or cattle mineral free choice. (I put vitamin crumble in my mineral, the vitamin crumble is called Mare Plus). Grain is optional, free choice hay or browse or grass is not optional. Grain for bucks is optional but needs to have ammonium chloride in it, or applied to it by you, to prevent urinary calculi.

Eye – saline solution, eye lubricant, Terramycin.

Kidding – dental floss if you get a bleeder umbilical. Snot sucker bulb, o.b. snare, witch hazel wipes and Dermoplast spray or Oragel if you have a sore doe that had a rough kidding. Triodine for navel dip. Toltrazuril for cases of coccidia in kids. O.b. lubricant. CD&T vaccine for mother 1 month prior to kidding and kids 1 month post kidding and again 2 months post kidding. Give 2ccs with a 22-25 ga needle.

Milking – Chap Guard udder cream, antibiotic spray or dip, wet ones, paper towels to blot dry. Some people use antibacterial hand gel. Clipper to get hair off the udder and belly for sanitary reasons. Milk stanchion optional but really helpful.

General medical – Betadine scrub, Nutri-drench, Tussin for chest congestion, peroxide, thermometers, penicillin G, LA200 antibiotic. Antitoxin for injuries when the status of the last CD&T was given is unknown. Athlete’s foot cream, lice powder, liquid benadryl, triple antibiotic ointment, High level vitamin B complex, vitamin supplement crumbles or gel, probiotic powder, wound spray, hoof trimmers (I like the orange handled ones sold at Jeffers Livestock). Kopertox if you live in a wet area or have hoof rot. Loose goat or cattle mineral free choice. 3cc “luer lock” syringes, 3cc “luer slip” syringes, 6cc syringes, 10cc syringes, 1 cc syringes. Needles: 25, 22, 20, 18 guages.

Bucks – tub of ammonium chloride if you use feed that doesn’t already have it as an ingredient.

Deworming – Or worming, I say it either way, but I don’t say “demilking.” 3 classes of wormer, I use – 1)Cydectin 2)Valbazen 3)Prohibit. Iron supplement used in conjunction with worming, helps speed recovery of anemia. Iron supplements are “Magic Cell” or “Red Cell” sold at TSC or you can get “ferrous sulfate” 325 mg pills from the drug store and crush 1 a day, mix with water and drench.

Prescription meds if you can get them – Resflor/Resflor Gold, Draxxin or Nuflor for respiratory infections, Banamine or dexamethasone for anti-inflamatories, thiamine.

Tattooing – green ink tube, wet ones, toothbrush (to scrub the ink into the holes in the ear) a little tackle box for organization and storage of the letters and pliers, alcohol for disinfecting after use. Pliers – (for Nigerian Dwarf – Stone brand 5/16 size pliers and number size). One set of alphabet and 2 sets of numbers.

-end supplies article-

10/5/17 – here is an outline of what might be helpful to someone if your goat has listeriosis. Everyone’s experiences will vary, this is what worked for me in one case:

Listeriosis typically breaks out when weather starts to cool off, rainy season, and heavy worm loads that go with wet weather. Symptoms: depression, one floppy ear, decreased appetite, leaning or stumbling, circling one direction, head pulled to flank with rigid neck, facial paralysis on one side, blindness, slack jaw, and drooling and foaming at mouth. Falling down and scooting in circles. Seizures.

Darjeeling’s case. 37lb goat. 7cc pen g every 4 hrs= Approx 1cc per 6 lb. 40mg ibuprofen every 4 hrs, 1mg per lb.

Procedures on discovery of a goat with listeriosis: (not goat polio)

Immediately begin penicillin at 5cc/50 lbs, IM. I chose to dose 7ccs for a 35lb goat.

Take temp. Too high and seizures could begin, too low and rumen could shut down.

Give vit B complex 3cc/20lb SQ can change to oral

Start Nutradrench or drenchable nutrients.

Start Dexamethasone or banamine to reduce brain swelling and pain relief. If you do not have banamine you can crush and drench ibuprofen at the human dose level, twice a day 12 hrs apart. If you don’t have ibuprofen, aspirin is a second choice, 1 regular aspirin per 10 lbs, crushed and drenched. Dex will cause abortions in pregnant does if the listeriosis doesn’t first.

Start probiotic at full mfg dosage to help gut flora from being completely wiped out by high doses of antibiotic you are giving. Give daily. Continue to give probiotic daily a week after stopping the antibiotic

Provide fresh tree leaves if you have them, oak, willow, etc, (not cherry).

If goat falls over and cannot sit upright, prop her up between two bales of hay to help breathing and keep rumen functioning.

If goat has seizures keep treating, don’t stop. Don’t give up, they can survive even from a high temp and seizures. Vision may be affected.

As friends told me, no matter how bad it looks, keep going with the treatment, do not give up!

Recommended treatment upon noticing listeriosis symptoms:

Every 4 hours:

*) Penicillin G at 5cc/50lbs IM.

*) Hi-level vitamin B complex 3cc/20lbs, IM

*) probiotics (I use “Goats Prefer” probiotic powder)

*) nutradrench or other vitamin drench

*) Dex, Banamine under vet/mfg dosing directions, or ibuprofen if you don’t have those (I suggest 40mg ibuprofin every 12 hrs for a 37 lb goat)

*) prop upright sternal position between hay bales, don’t let her lie flat.

*) eye lubricant as eyelids will be paralyzed along with her throat.

*) get water in her either through syringe, or tubing if you are very practiced at tubing.

*) check eye membrane color for FAMACHA score and deworm if necessary, also give iron supplement to combat the anemia. WATCH OUT for a worm bloom when she is in this weakened state, they will take over at an amazing speed then you have 2 battles.

*) Watch for pneumonia or out of control infection, take temp daily.

The goat will lose the ability to blink eyes, swallow (will drool copiously) or move head and neck, it will be pinned to her side. If you try to move her head she will feel vertigo and begin to struggle and scramble. She will want to eat and drink, keep giving water and nutridrench even if she drools it out. Continue the instructions above every 4 hours until the goat can begin to swallow again, quits drooling and can nibble hay and drink water.

At the point the goat can swallow again (should take 2-3 days to reach this point), although she won’t be able to move her head and neck away from her side or stand up, start medicating every 6 hours with the instructions above. At this point you can start to give the vit B orally instead of injected. Keep giving water as often as possible, any way possible. When she begins to be able to move her head without kicking and scrambling, you can hold a bucket tilted for her to drink out of. She will also be eating hay.

I would not feed grain, only hay until she is recovered and up on her feet. WATCH FOR WORMS. Watch her eye membrane color every day. Deworm and supplement with iron as needed. You can use “Red Cell”, “Magic Cell” or go to the supplement section in any pharmacy and buy “ferrous sulfate” 325 mg pills. Crush the pills between two spoons mix with water and give orally by syringe. 1 pill daily should be sufficient for any size goat. Iron should be given every day for 14 days then once per week.

Continue to inject pen g at least twice a day for 4-5 days after she’s up and symptoms have abated.

-end listeriosis article-

10/2/17 – I put together a bottle feeding guidance list. It’s not perfect but it would get someone started.

Bottle feeding chart:

*)Bucks until they are at least 2 months old

*)Does until they are 4-5 months old or have first heat.

*)All kids should be playing with hay at 1 week old and eating hay at 3 weeks, feed optional see below. You must stimulate fiber intake as early as possible to develop the kid’s rumen.

*)If you are feeding raw goat milk this is the best. If you are feeding pasteurized goat milk add a probiotic (I use ‘Goats Prefer” powdered probiotic)

*)If you are feeding vit D cow milk from the store you should add probiotic AND a teaspoon of heavy cream to each bottle, as goat milk has double the fat in it than cow milk does. Adding the fat into the cow milk will speed the development of the kids and aid in skeletal formation. Don’t overdo it on the heavy cream or they will get the runs. If they get the runs you know to back down a bit on how much cream you are adding. Make sure it is pure heavy whipping cream and NOT half and half.

*) Rumen development is key in raising bottle kids. They MUST be learning to nibble hay at a few days old. They learn this by watching mother when being dam raised, so it is your job to make sure they are offered hay and “pretend” to eat it with your fingers to encourage their curiosity.

*)Begin with a 4 oz bottle, they won’t drink it all in one sitting the first few days. I get my bottles at walmart and use the brown nipples, cut a very small hole in the nipple end that you can widen as they grow. You want to be careful bottle feeding young goats because if the flow is too high they will inhale it and get pneumonia.  If your baby refuses it’s bottle a twice in a row suspect a respiratory infection take a temp and treat immediately. Keep an eye on them to make sure they are defecating. If not, use warm water (no soap) in a 1 to 3cc syringe (no needle) as necessary, should get them to pass fecal material.

Day 1-5 –  6 times a day (I leave them on the dam during this period)

Day 6-10 – 5 times a day

Day 11-30 – 4 times a day (During this period you will probably change to a 9 oz bottle, they may not take the whole bottle at the beginning of this period but will be taking a whole bottle soon)

Day 31 – 50 – 3 times a day

Day 51-60 – Twice or once a day (for bucks) depending on how much they are eating of hay/grain.

*Bucks – wean at two months IF they are eating HAY and grain (grain optional, I use one with decoquinate in it, a coccidiostat – and for bucks also ammonium chloride in the feed)

*Doe kids continued below (a lot depends on their growthiness. IF they are eating HAY and grain (grain optional, I use one with decoquinate in it, a coccidiostat)

Day 51-3 months –  3 times a day

4 months – twice a day

4-5 months – once a day (they may be eating enough to stop at 4 months, you want to see skeletal width in the ribs and rump, then need enough calcium for sufficient skeletal growth to pass kids through the pelvis). By the time I quit bottle feeding a doe kid she usually has her first heat.  *I don’t breed does until they are 1.5 years old.

-end bottle feeding article-

9/15/17 We welcome a temporary guest here at the MI farm until he goes home in early Nov to his new mommy in SC. Zanzabeez EO Toga Party, polled buck, the lucky duck getting him is Fran at Wooly Dog Down Farm in Easley, SC.

9/11/17. Well shit. Darjeeling has come down with listeriosis. It’s now the 14th and she is still down paralyzed and I’m still working on her very hard. I’ve only had one case of this before and I lost the battle. If I save her I’ll post the protocol I followed on this page and the farm facebook page.

9/6/17 Added a new polled buck to the herd, Kyeema Ridge Archer! I am VERY happy with him, he’s a long bodied dairy boy. Yipee!

9/2/17 – updated Esther’s and Q-tip’s pages with their barn milk records, for what they are worth.

8/22/17 – Both in NC and MI we have great quality animals for sale. Please see the NC Sales page and the MI Farm page. Discounts for multiple purchases, and we are very favorable to selling does in pair to make their transition easier – will start advertising when the does kid in the fall.

8/13/17 Four goats that we sold this spring were returned to us: Rooibee, Irma, Rose, and Hail. This puts me at 17 goats when my goal is 5-6. Please watch our sales section on the Michigan Farm page as soon as some of these does kid in the fall.

8/3/17 Created page Michigan Farm Sire Lines.

7/29/17 from the main Michigan page, you will be able to go to each goat’s individual page and see the ADGA pedigree pasted into the page.

7/16/17 My husband was in a major motorcycle accident, was in critical condition and is still in long term care (as of 7/29). I will need to sell some goats so watch the sales page on the Michigan farm page. Working slowly toward getting down to about half population.

7/11/16 Added Darjeeling and Oolong to the Michigan page, will be for sale in the future as a mother daughter pair once they kid in the fall.

6/30/17 added a few pictures to my red Silkie project page.

6/28/17 We put a deposit down on this nice little linebred buck, Shere Country ST Albert, who will be joining the MI farm in Oct!

6/19/17 Check out or Facebook page for photos and video clips.

6/17/17 In MI, Five-Points P Pickpocket is due with Sept kids. I’m adding links to short video clips on the MI doe page. In the last month have updated some photos of the MI goats also. We’ve decided to put off a goat exchange between the NC and MI farms until fall 2017 when things cool off. Boom is looking beautiful and slicked out now.

3/14/17  Day 2 of Boom’s surgery, her other side has been finished and I can pick her up at 3pm today. The dr said she got some “monster chunks of teeth” out of Boom, she’s going to feel soooo much better! She’s got a shot of Nuflor on board, and the doctor is sending home meloxicam for me to give orally starting tonight to help with pain. I’ve been instructed to watch her closely, and you can bet I will be, this goat is going to be a whopper of a financial investment. – And she’s home. Bill was $465, not as much as I had feared. Welcome home Boom – time to gain about 40-50lbs!!!

An aside. I’m seeing so many people complain about all their kidding issues. This is why if I am not giving grain, but giving only good hay, loose mineral and vitamins, and still have a doe with kidding issues, I cull her. I can see issues arising from overfeeding grain and fat does, I can see issues from using a buck that is too large. Those are things you caused. But if nutritional and sire factors are not to blame, then maybe the doe is too narrow, too short boddied, or other genetic issues.  I personally wouldn’t keep propagating those genes in my herd, but some people just keep breeding the same doe over and over. Sorry, stepping off soap box.

3/13/17 –BoomBoom update: she was sedated long enough to pull the broken teeth out of the front, and file down some hooks and sharp things on one side of her mouth back in the molars. The dr didn’t want to keep her under any longer, So boom will stay overnight and the doctor will put her under again and do that other back side. Said that the hooks and ramps were digging into the opposite side so it must have been terrible to try to eat. Getting the other side filed down should put her back to normal. The dr said she could not see missing molars and believes it was just these big sharp edges. I asked could she tell what caused it, she said she doesn’t know. Could be genetic, could be nutritional, wasn’t injury. No Boom’s big bug eyes looking at me here tonight! 🙁

3/12/17Dental surgery for Boom tomorrow morning, she’ll start fasting 10 tonight. I drop her off 10am tomorrow, updates when I know something.

Have a pair of kids with the shits, been treating with Baycox. Today I disolved 2 of my probiotic gummies in water and syringed that to the kids, to replenish the good gut bacteria.

3/9/17 – BoomBoom update (continued from 2/18 when we repossessed Boom for non-payment) Got word from my vet that Boom is Johne’s and CAE negative. She is now allowed out of quarantine and can enjoy grazing with the other does. Now we move on with dental surgery, she has an appointment on Monday to see what exactly is going on that is making her eat so slowly and preventing her from eating hay or swallowing a cud.

Both my disbudded kids have the squirts, as usual, only the disbudded kids have a bout of coccidiosis, while the polled kids have nothing going on. This happens every disbudding. I guess I’m going to start treating with Baycox prophylactically after disbudding. Disbudding temporarily negatively affects growth. We do it because it is forced on us by the registry – if you want to show, you can’t have horns. Therefore the value of the animal and the quality of any future home for it is tied to horns. This is why I concentrate on polled goats. I’m moving toward an entirely polled herd.

3/8/17 Q-tip and Esther are milking well:  Five-Points Farm q-tip (Five-Points Farm AL Papa Legba x Five-Points T2S Sassafras Sea) First freshener, overnight fill, 1.44lbs, DIM 37. Wooly Dog Down Esther Rose, 2nd freshener (Wood Bridge Farm Creighton x Alpenglade Farm Calico Rose) Overnight fill, 2.25lbs, DIM 27.

3/3/17 we lost a good friend today that helped us out at the NC farm, Rick Meismer. He was such a gentle, good person, one of those rare few people that no one had a bad word to say about.

3/1/17 In NC, sold a LaMancha doe, LaMancha buck, and two (make that 3!) Nigerian Dwarf does to a wonderful new home – yay!!!

2/28/17 -BoomBoom update (continued from 2/18 when we repossessed Boom for non-payment)  I got back from NC last night with Boom, and we went to the vet today. She is getting some pink back in her eyelid membrane, and I’m giving her iron supplement to boost recovery from anemia. Kristin wormed her the day she got her, the 19th, so good progress in just one week, she used 2 classes at once because the membrane color was so dead white. Vet pulled blood for Johne’s and CAE and took a fecal. Had a look in her mouth, found broken front teeth, and we’ll have to come back after the lab results are back and sedate her to see what is going on in the back teeth. Boom is filled with life, interest, and fire. She’s going to be fine if those labs come back alright. More later.

2/19/17

BoomBoom returns home. (SGM The Queen’s Bloomers) Boom left on a doe-back contract in 2013, and we never received a doe kid, and we never received payment for her, so we repossessed Boom today, and what a mess she is. She is not the hefty lively first freshener that left us, she’s coming back missing teeth and was never seen by a vet for this. She can’t chew a cud but they were only giving her hay so her weight is shockingly low, they let her miscarry in January. So we wormed her immediately, gave her pelleted feed – which wonder of wonders, she can eat just fine, she just can’t process long fibers requiring cud chewing. They were simply not feeding her the food she could process.  She is in NC, I’ll be picking her up next weekend, 2/25/17 and bring her back to MI. We’ll get her checked out by a vet, get her labwork redone. Today I also updated the Nigerian Dwarf jr doe page to reflect the most current goats owned.

2/10/17 Wooly Dog Down Esther freshened with triplets, one doe kid polled.

1/30/17 Five-Points PL (q-tip) freshened with polled twins, with a big productive udder.

Jan 2017, MI farm sold 6 goats to Halcyon Hill Farm in Hillsdale, MI, for health reasons that have recently happened to me. I have to keep a much smaller herd from now on.

Dec 2016 our retired doe, Lost Valley KW Wild Fire, died at age 14.

Fall 2016 Lost our old website because GoDaddy changed formats and then wanted to charge us to update our site we were already paying a hell of a lot for. Buh-bye “Slow-Daddy”.

April 2015, Opened the farm in MI, and in May brought up a herd from my sister’s farm in NC.

2003 The Five-Points Farm in Indian Trail, NC was established.